It’s a desert walk that I will remember for a long time - it has to be up
there with the best walks in the world. The rich reds, cool pools of water,
dry air and visible evidence of eons of geological transformation makes this
walk very special.
The trip was an excerpt of the best bits the Larapinta
trail has to offer. Excursions to Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon completed
our 2 week journey to the red centre.
Day 1 - Hassles getting to Alice Springs
I arrived at Tullamarine airport, Melbourne an hour before the scheduled
flight. The queue was not progressing with consideration of my needs, meaning
that 20 minutes was all that was left by the time I reached the check in
counter. The attendant said that it was too late and that I would miss the
flight. The next one was scheduled for tomorrow. After a few phone calls I was
permitted through - phew !
Not quite off the hook though. It took a bit of time to pass through the Xray
station , then there was a gate change from 9 to 23. I wasn't the only one to
be caught on this one as a mobile impaired lady also was here. I dashed around
seeking assistance for her and managed to find an attendant to arrange a
mobile cart to give her a lift. Not suited for more than 2, I had to run to
the other gate.
Huffing with the exercise, I was the last one on, but with no carry on not
the last to be seated. My new found friend, spookilly happened to have the
seat right next to me so we had a good chinwag. She was given this trip as a
gift but was anxious thinking there would be nothing to do in Alice Springs
! After describing our plans I think she got some ideas. The flight
was smooth and uneventful, and somehow we managed to arrive slightly earlier
than schedule.
Methylated spirits: harder to procure than marijuana ! The local
indigenous peoples like to drink the stuff so it's all behind the counter.
We visited seveal stores trying to work out who sells it. Almost had to buy
a new stove. (and we probably should have because the driver charged us an
extra 30 bucks for the delay). Had we of known we would have prearranged the
purchase by the shuttle company.
Our driver was friendly and spoke well on the various attractions as we
passed by them. Our first port of call was Simpsons Gap. The Simpsons gap
stop was unexpected but worth it. It is a special place, spiritual for the
indigenous peoples and I can see why.
We picked up a few extra passengers here as well: two guys, three ladies most
are retired. We had a great chat about the track which they had finished going
the opposite direction to us. One was sleeping under the stars - a
biological psychologist
by profession. I had to confirm later on the internet to determine if such
anoccupation existed ! Never really liked sleeping in the open personally.
Even though this would be ideal, the thought of seeing the night sky and
breathing the open air has appeal, but the reality is that there is a lot of
insects around, we are used to the dark of closed rooms and it has been
raining on occasion.There was a retired teacher who travels for six months a
year and puts in some relief work the other six months to pay for his travel
quests and a German guy has been to Australia 16 times and just can't seem to
escape the lure of travel here.
The journey to Standley Chasm happened in a seeming instance after all our
conversation. Our intent was to leave promptly, after looking around the
chasm, but the lure of famed burgers at the cafe stalled our intent
(well there is that, but this place is magical). The toilets here and water
are all clean, though we filtered the water as a precautionary measure.
Standley Chasm, along with Simpson's Gap are something very special. For those
who cannot do any walking they are treated well with the access to some
beautiful features from the road with very little walking .
Day 1 - the walk: Standley Chasm to Birthday Waterhole
9:00 am, a long day already with the early flight, time difference and
shannanigans intended to defer smooth progress. We are off walking. Our packs
heavy with 5 litres of water and seven days of food, and a hill to start off
with. The hill was a gentle steady ascent along a creek bed then up the valley
to Bridle Path lookout.
Then there was a brutal descent down Brinkly Bluff, I am glad I made the
effort to train on the beachside stairs for the past three months. Mike
suffered a bit on his knees but made it through.
Spinifex
spears through your flesh at any opportunity undeterred by the light clothing
you are wearing. I sat on a rock and in a crack one was growing, put my hand
down not realising its presence. The spearing into the flesh of those spikes
left me an unpleasant souvenir of pain that lasted the rest of the day and
into the next. Canvas gaiters are essential here.
What a striking place. The terrain speaks of an aged part of the world, the
barren exposed red rock. Barren though not devoid of life the vegetation are
tough survivors of the plant world, no Euro imports here ! There are also
plenty of birds and small marsupials.
Signs are placed in strategic locations to reassure you. How thoughtful,
someone has placed a personalised sign just for me !
We arrived at Birthday waterhole with our two very weary bodies. I was tempted
to simply sleep on the dirt, but managed to summon the energy to pitch tent
and prepare the meal.
Despite its name, there was no water in the hole, just dust. We had just
enough water and were grateful for the water tanks.
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